Trinkets from Oman Part II

Some time back I wrote about my Omani silver collection. You can find it here if you'd like to read that post. At the time, I promised more installments, but got waylaid with other stuff - as one does! Anyway, I'm finally catching up with myself, so here for your enjoyment (hopefully!) is part II.

These are Khol pots. Holders for that wonderful dark smudgy stuff that is traditionally used to accentuate the eyes. Omani women, men and children all wear it. The first photo shows a small decorative pot used by women; the second is a man's khol pot which would have been worn hanging from his belt. This photo shows the applicator stick in front of the pot.

This beautiful, heavy piece is a decorative hair ornament.

Earrings in this part of the world tend to be heavy. This is a pair of 'small' earrings - quite delicate in comparison to the next...

This is a much larger earring, making quite a statement with its red bead and two long dangles attached.

Whoa, is that an earring? Could be a bit weighty in the lobe .. No, fortunately it isn't! Looks like an earring, but it is actually part of a head dress. Several of these large rings would have dangled over the ears from a strap or chain running over the top of the head from side to side. Apparently this could weigh up to 2.5 kilos - pretty heavy and only worn by the wealthy !

Still on the large side for an earring, but my absolute favourite! This is a beautiful silver and gold piece from the Sur region.

Close up of the same piece showing the intricate embossing.

Two earring hoops

which might have been worn with these dangles.

Moving on from the silver, did you know that Frankinsence trees grow in Oman? This little box contains both amber coloured Frankincense(left) and the darker Myrhh (right). These resins are burned for their heady fragrance and antiseptic qualities.

Here's an intricate piece of Omani embroidery - teeny, tiny stitches! This is the top part of an Omani man's cap.

A couple of scanned photos of the interior of Oman where old villages cling to the craggy mountain sides. High, high up in the mountains in Wakan, where the air is fresh and cool, farmers tend terraces of fruit trees and vegetables and in the springtime when their almond trees blossom it's a magnificent sight.

And last, but very definitely not least, here's a pic of a favourite Omani Jebel Dog. If you read about our hols in Provence you will have seen Kas before. Very sadly though, dear Kas passed away this weekend in France where she had lived out her last years with our friends - her people - after they left Oman. She will be very much missed, but I like to believe that she will be continuing to bark loudly at vapour trails in the sky in her Doggie Valhalla.

I will be back with the third and final installment of this series very soon!

A trip to Europe - Week 1 - the South of France

Window at Tourtour

We spent a few days in Provence at the beginning of June. The weather was wonderful and we enjoyed lazy hours relaxing in our friends' beautiful garden, wining and dining al fresco, as well as more energetic days exploring the beautiful countryside and browsing in colourful markets. I'm not sure what epitomises Provence for me most! It could be the spectacular, verdant landscape or the dazzling French Riviera or maybe it's the sweet smelling lavender or the crimson poppies - or is it the delicious rose wine, olives or herbs? Then again, it could be the fabrics ... it's all wonderful and I am smitten by this part of the world!

Let's start with a visit to St Tropez market.

First though, you'll need to buy a shady hat - it's very hot today!

And a shopping basket for all your goodies!

This stall sells delightful sea-themed paintings on wood and little carvings of birds - are you tempted?

Mmmm - the heavenly scent of dried lavender.


For Irene - A watercolour from my sketch book of fresh lavender from your garden! Click to enlarge if you like.
A lavender sachet to scent your linen.

Need a gift for a friend? How about some soap or honey perhaps? You can't go wrong with a container of that delicious melange of local herbs Herbes de Provence .

Luscious ripe tomatoes for lunch.




Pick up a selection of dried herbs and spices. The choice is amazing!

Don't forget some delicious black olives. Buy some to accompany the aperitifs this evening, or make your own Tapenade to spread on toast. It can also be used in other recipes for a burst of extra flavour - try the recipe further down the page!



In that case, you'll need some garlic then!


Sweet tooth? Try some Navettes - flavoured pastries in the shape of little boats.

Or delicious cherries - these were the last from our dessert one evening!


Deck the table with wonderful Provencal fabrics.


Marketing over, but you can't put your feet up just yet! Unpack the olives and garlic and whizz up a yummy Tapenade...

My recipe omits anchovies ( yuk!) but you can include a couple of rinsed fillets if you prefer!

125 g pitted black olives
2 garlic cloves, peeled
25 g capers, drained and rinsed
15 mls chopped fresh parsley
5 mls chopped fresh thyme
pinch of mustard powder
30 mls extra virgin olive oil
squeeze of lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper

Place all ingredients in blender and whizz till chopped finely. Place in airtight jar and store in fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Use this for spreading on the base of this simply scrumptious potato and onion tart and serve with salad.

Recipe

225g pack of shortcrust pastry (You can make your own, of course, but I'm feeling lazy and anyway it's difficult to make good pastry in my hot kitchen in Malaysia!)
3 small potatoes (225 g), leave the skins on if possible
2 onions, sliced finely
60 mls extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
good sprinkle of Herbes de Provence
3 tbs home made Tapenade
30 mls capers, rinsed and drained
125 g Gruyere (or Cheddar) cheese, grated
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat baking sheet in oven (220 c). Roll out pastry to 30 cm round on lightly floured surface. Lift pastry onto another baking sheet and form a rim with the edge. Prick the base with a fork and line with greaseproof paper and baking beans. Place on heated baking sheet in oven and bake at 220 c for 10 mins. Remove paper and beans and return to oven for about 5 mins till pastry is crisp.
Meanwhile cook potatoes in boiling water 15 mins or so, then drain and refresh in cold water. Pat dry and cut into thin slices.
Heat oil and cook onions, garlic and herbs for 10 mins until softened and golden.
Spread Tapenade on base, top with potatoes, onions and capers. Scatter cheese, season and bake for 20-25 mins until cheese is golden brown. Serve with salad.

Enjoy!!

Ok, so we've pottered in the markets and cooked a meal. Next time we'll take Kas the Omani desert dog, out for a walk. Kas is living out her retirement in the south of France with her people and enjoys barking at passing overhead aeroplanes!! With her leading the way, we'll pass olive groves underscored with vibrant poppies, take in a beautiful lake and mountain gorge, as well as getting an arty fix in picturesque villages! Hope you'll join us!